ABS Slurry Mix Recipe - Universal for 1.75mm/3.00mm Filaments
This solution is better for larger prints and/or prints that require more print time.
After many months of testing, I have determined that an ABS Slurry mix is best for longer or larger prints. As promised, I have compiled a recipe for the community that works well.
What you need:
- Glass Jar that is around 750 ml or around 25 fl.oz. Don't go smaller if you can help it. Try a 1L or 32 fl. oz. jar instead.
- Professional-Grade Acetone - Qty (See below)
- ABS Filament 1.75mm or 3mm - Qty (See below)
- Clean your Jar and Lid with Dish Soap and water and dry
- Measure 500mL (16.9 fl. oz. or a little over 2 cups) of Acetone
- Pour into Jar and seal right away. NOTE: Acetone evaporates rapidly!!
- Measure 50g of filament.
- Open Jar and put filament pieces in.
- Seal Jar and shake vigorously for 5 min.
- Open Jar slightly to allow the gas to escape, periodically.
- Everything should be dissolved within 24 hours, but ready to use after 12 hours or so.
Here are some pictures of my process:
10 Grams of ABS failed prints, power rafts, and nozzle clears
Types of failures and waste
Filled Jar, not yet dissolved Only 10g of ABS here
Picture at 1-hour showing some progress
At one hour into the dissolving process, the solution resembles the ABS Juice solution with some of the larger chunks still not fully dissolved. Also note the bubbles. They resemble a very light, thin bubble. This is still very much the Juice (watery) stage. We are looking for a chocolate whole milk consistency where the bubbles hold/show more fluid around them. The picture below represents what we have as a thin, ABS Juice solution in black and white. Then in comparison, we also have chocolate milk bubbles that resemble what we are looking for with the ABS Slurry mix.
This doesn't have to be an exact science, but we have found that the more ABS that is in the solution, the better the print holds.
The correct ratio for slurry is 10g of ABS per every 100mL of acetone. After one day of preparation, we arrived at this ratio, and below are some pictures for your reference.
Thicker ABS Slurry Solution
Notice the bubbles and the amount of fluid around them.
Solution runs slowly down the can lid
Below are some shots of the Slurry used after application and printing. The print was a 12-hour print using 75% rectilinear infill. Power raft, 0.2mm layer height, 5 outlines, and the rest should be default for 1.75mm ABS filament.
Finished print...Flawless...Easy separation...No warpage...Happy customer
This shows the ease of separation from the bed
Print bed after part removal
How to apply the slurry to the COLD print surface
Use a cold surface to ensure the acetone doesn't boil off. It will evaporate on its own rather quickly.
-The ABS Juice/Slurry mixes can and will melt the Plexiglas covers and sides. Use a piece of paper to block your brush spring-backs (for lack of a better term), otherwise you will get dots of colored ABS plastic on the windows when you apply the solution. If you try to clean it off with acetone, you will cloud the Plexiglas because you are essentially melting it. I will not go into how I obtained this valuable information.
- Wipe or blow the print bed off with a rag or canned air.
- Grab your Slurry mix jar.
- Either pour a small amount of slurry onto the glass, or dip a 1" genuine bristle brush into your jar and start to apply it to the glass surface. If you poured it out, spread it around circularly in an outward fashion.
- Once you have it spread out, start painting it on. Alternate up and down with right and left. Do this until the solution dries to a sticky consistency.
- At this point, you may notice it not being as thick as what you see in my pictures above...Time to repeat steps 3-5 again. If it looks as thick as my glass does (usually 3-4 applications), skip to step 6.
- Let the solution dry completely. It should resemble a canvas painting - almost like a weave of plastic.
- Test it out! I recommend you use a power raft with this slurry mix. Your print should turn out nicer, but more importantly, we have had issues removing prints printed directly to the surface using this solution. It works that well.
- Let me know what you think of the solution and this method. I am always open to suggestions.
On day-long prints, we find this to work better than anything we have tried in the past.
Once you have removed the part from the glass, don't feel you have to clean the glass off after every print, just reapply the solution to the glass in that bare area using the same techniques and print again. After a noticeable amount of buildup has occurred, you can clean the glass with the scraper and a paper towel and some acetone. It will come right up with some elbow grease.
I will also include a video showing how I apply the slurry using the partially bare glass you saw above. Look for that shortly.
I hope you find this helpful. Please leave any comments or suggestions in this thread below. Thanks!